Rural Food Deserts

There are as many definitions of a rural food desert as there are researchers defining it, but most all agree that it is an area where healthy and affordable food is not accessible and that few or no full-service grocery stores exist. The notion of food deserts was born in the United Kingdom in the 1990’s when grocers moved out of the cities into the suburban market, leaving populated areas with no access to food retailers. In the U.S. it is somewhat different, as Blanchard states, “…the proliferation of convenience stores and gas stations ensure that some type of food is accessible to almost all residents. However, the quality and pricing of food products available in U.S. convenience stores and supermarkets varies dramatically.” Not only do consumers at convenience stores pay higher prices but typically fresh fruits and vegetables are not available and food that is available is of a lower nutritional value. “Thus the application of the food desert concept in the U.S. elucidates a great divide between those with and without access to low cost, high quality food.”

So where do food deserts come from? Have we always had them? The structure of the food retailing industry has become more concentrated over time. According to Walter Heller, Research Director at Progressive Grocer magazine, communities in the 1950’s used to have more than 50% of food retailing business done at Mom and Pop grocery stores. Now it is approximately 17%. As supercenter stores (hybrid stores offering groceries and discount merchandise such as Wal-Mart or Target) are built, small grocers are forced out of business. The buying power of large corporations has changed the distribution pattern within the industry. Also, in rural areas shrinking population from young people and families moving away to areas with more economic opportunity further squeeze small grocers and retailers. Supermarket chains locate their stores where they can attract the most shoppers which makes economic sense. Rural areas are the losers. All of these factors contribute to the creation of a rural food desert.

The effects of a food desert are born by the population. “The USDA estimates that groceries average 10% more in food deserts than at suburban grocers.” Thus the poor are at a disadvantage.

Refrigerators may be stocked with expensive fatty foods from a convenience store rather than fresh fruits and vegetables from the supermarket. In a case study of rural Iowa involving over 1,500 individuals, “the surveys uncovered… distinct challenges for residents: (1) A large share (more than 45%) did not consume adequate amounts of fresh fruits; (2) Nearly two-thirds did not consume adequate amounts of vegetables; (3) More than one-third (34%) lacked adequate dairy in their diet, and (4) More than one-fourth lacked the recommended levels of protein in their diet.” Not only are there fewer or no supermarkets in a food desert, fruit and vegetable markets are less prevalent in food deserts.

These findings are especially troublesome given that a larger proportion of the population of poor, low-income individuals and the disabled are found in food deserts. These are society’s most vulnerable members. “Food deserts may compound severe nutritional problems and further exacerbate the socioeconomic gradient in health status.”

What can be done? Morton and Blanchard make a variety of recommendations that go beyond the basic economic development that is needed. Grocer associations can advocate and innovate for reasonable wholesale pricing and distribution networks for small grocers. People should be encouraged to shop locally, supporting the existing rural grocers and creating farmers’ markets. The safety net of meals on wheels, community kitchens, food pantries and such should be enhanced. The transportation infrastructure needs to be assessed and a mix or private and public transportation options developed to provide resident’s access to food retailers. And lastly, more support is needed for the 2007 Farm Bill which funds the Food Stamp Program, which helps families afford more nutritious food, wherever Food Stamps are accepted.

Blanchard, Troy C. and Thomas A. Lyson. Retail Concentration, Food Deserts, and Food Disadvantaged Communities in Rural America. page 1.
Ibid. page 2.
“Residents do without in America’s ‘food deserts’” http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5353901.
Morton, Lois Wright and Troy C. Blanchard. Starved for Access: Life in Rural American’s Food Deserts, Rural Realities. page 1.
“Residents do without in America’s ‘food deserts’” http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5353901.
Morton, Lois Wright and Troy C. Blanchard. Starved for Access: Life in Rural American’s Food Deserts, Rural Realities. page 4.
Blanchard, Troy C. and Thomas A. Lyson. Retail Concentration, Food Deserts, and Food Disadvantaged Communities in Rural America. page 14.
Ibid, page 15.

New Farmers’ Market Opens in Mason Square

Four tents, colorful vegetables, beautiful flowers, fragrant herbs, and a crowd of people await you at 11 Wilbraham Road in Mason Square, Springfield these Saturday mornings. A new farmers’ market is up and running thanks to Concerned Citizens of Mason Square. Formed in 2006 in a response to Target:Hunger Springfield partners’ expressing the need for a farmers’ market as a way to increase food security for the area, Concerned Citizens has been working on the market for about a year.

John Osborn, manager of the Concerned Citizens of Mason Square Farmers’ Market, said that the market started under the leadership of Tasha Moultrie, coordinator of Target:Hunger Springfield. Community leader and Target:Hunger partner Synthia Scott-Mitchell had been involved in starting a farmers' market in Mason Square in the past, which ended up moving to downtown Springfield several years ago. She felt the time was ripe to try to start another. Following her inspiration, Moultrie approached people and organizations to plan the project. These residents of Mason Square formed Concerned Citizens of Mason Square and then directed the project with the support of Target:Hunger.

In February of 2007 Concerned Citizens and Target:Hunger hit the streets with a survey to determine interest in a farmers' market and what kinds of produce residents would prefer.

Concerned Citizens met once a month and used The Food Bank of Western Massachusetts in a supporting role - such as temporarily acting as fiscal agent until Concerned Citizens wins 501c3 non-profit status.

The Food Bank approached CISA (Community Involved in Sustaining Agriculture) to attract farmers to the market. CISA’s mission is to strengthen relationships between local farmers and consumers in western Massachusetts.

Flying Pitchfork Collective, one of the farms, came on board serendipitously. Alice Posner, a member of the collective, was interviewing at The Food Bank for an internship position when she learned of the opportunity for farms to supply the new market. Flying Pitchfork is in its first year of existence and is made up of a small core group of people 18 to 25 years old and a lot of volunteers who want to learn to farm. They have 1 acre in production on a New England Small Farms site in Belchertown. To support Flying Pitchfork and mitigate the risk in attending a new market, CISA paid Flying Pitchfork to deliver 25 senior farm shares to a senior center in the area once a week for ten weeks. The Food Bank Farm was further able to support the collective in its first year in providing produce for the collective to sell at the market if its harvest fell short. The Food Bank loaned a van to the farm to use two times a week.

Goosefoot and Garlic farm also became involved with the market through CISA. They committed to coming every other week so that they could have some time off but have been there most weeks anyway. The Food Bank offered cold storage facilities to them to make it easier to harvest during normal working hours rather than getting up at 3:00 a.m. on the day of the market to pick all the vegetables.

Gardening the Community, a youth-centered community based urban agriculture project, where principles of sustainable living are introduced and fostered, is one of the original organizations involved in starting the market. Youth who are involved with the project grow organic fruits and vegetables on abandoned lots on Central and on Lebonan Streets. To support Gardening the Community’s participation, The Food Bank provided $2,400 in funds bequeathed in honor of Ricky Fogel, a former employee of The Food Bank’s own organic farm. This fund was established in his memory to support young people working for food security. It’s being used to provide stipends for the 12 youth who come to the market weekly to sell their produce and to conduct outreach.

The final step in organizing the market before it opened was doing outreach. It’s been a collective effort with all Target:Hunger partners stepping in and advertising through church bulletins and fliers. Gardening the Community participants canvass the area weekly, distributing 800 to 1,000 fliers throughout the neighborhood. Target:Hunger’s Mason Square Food Resource Guide also advertised it, and is being given out by the Mason Square Health Center and WIC office. Osborn contacted the local fire station where they hung a banner advertising it.

The market’s grand opening (actually its second week in business) was July 21, 2007. It is selling kale, radishes, jalapeños peppers, corn potatoes, collard greens, mustard greens, zucchini, summer squash, cucumbers (both pickling and English), tomatoes, carrots, flowers, garlic, onions, scallions, eggplant, corn, cantaloupe, and herbs.

Osborn said that people’s reactions to the market have been good. “There’s a good buzz in the neighborhood. Fresh food is available at competitive prices. People get here at 8:00 to 8:30 waiting for the market to open at 9:00. It’ll only get better as word spreads through the neighborhood and the total number utilizing the market increases. We get a steady flow from open to close.” Diana Riddle of Goosefoot and Garlic Farm said the first few days have been unexpectedly good regardless of the wind the first day and rain just last week. She was excited at the turnout for the new market.

All the partners involved who made the market possible agree that the immediate impact of the market has been to get fresh locally produced produce into the neighborhood. Good nutrition will positively impact the health of the residents. Moultrie said, “People are coming out, showing their support.” And she noted, they are building community again.

Another positive impact has been that the market is seeing a lot of WIC vouchers. WIC vouchers allow WIC participants to get a specified amount of fruits and vegetables for free.

The market is having a glorious first year but there are issues and concerns.

Pricing at the market has been a bit of a struggle for the farmers. Posner of Flying Pitchfork said they want a decent price that encourages people to buy the vegetables but it also must be sustainable for the farmers. Diana Riddle of Goosefoot and Garlic farm said they also find the pricing to be troublesome. They use other farmers’ markets as a reference and also check prices at C-Town, a market in Mason Square. “But,” Riddle says, “prices are so low [at C-Town] we can’t match them, but get the idea of what to expect. We price lower [at this market] than other markets.” Osborn said, “[People are] very pleased with pricing.”

Osborn said that Concerned Citizens has been approached by produce resellers who would like to set up at the market. However, Concerned Citizens wants to keep the market limited to actual producers rather than have resellers involved, in order to ensure the farmers profit from their work.

Moultrie said one of the future goals of the market is to get a machine that can process debit, credit, and EBT cards for all the vendors. Currently Goosefoot and Garlic Farm is authorized to process foodstamps over the phone. And finally, Moultrie adds, it would be great to be able to offer entertainment each week.

“The greatest challenge [to the market] is getting a full complement of offerings because there is such diversity in the neighborhood,” Osborn states. Hopes for the future include “more farmers to expand the variety of products offered.” Also, to use the venue to provide information about programs and services in the area to the people using the market and turn it into a community event. Osborn said that the market can provide fellowship and there may be other ways to spin off to give benefit. “Growth in the community piece is almost as important as the fresh produce.”